SIPwall technical documentation

Recommendations for assembling the house kit

How to accept, store and assemble a SIPwall house kit: sections in order of work, diagrams and tables.

House kit assembly recommendationsSection 5 of 24

General requirements for the use of wooden houses made of SIP panels

Foundation

Installation must be carried out by a crew or organization holding a certificate of professional competence.

To avoid deformation of a screw-pile (strip, pile, etc.) foundation caused by frost heave of the soil, the following must be done:

  • install a perimeter apron around the house in accordance with the applicable SNiP (SP);
  • install a gutter system to ensure controlled drainage of water away from the foundation;
  • install a drainage system to carry water away from the finished foundation.

Constantly monitor the condition of the plinth part of the foundation that protrudes from the ground and of the perimeter apron around the foundation. If cracks, chips or similar damage appear on the foundation, contact our company's specialists immediately.

Without a specially developed design agreed with our company, do not carry out work that could damage:

  • the crushed-stone and sand bed of the foundation;
  • the integrity of the foundation, including its plinth part;
  • the integrity of the vertical and horizontal waterproofing of the foundation (if present);
  • the ventilation of the technical crawl space or basement (if present);
  • the integrity of the foundation cladding and insulation (if present).

If the listed requirements are not met, the strength of the foundation may be weakened, which may compromise the load-bearing capacity of the house as a whole.

Walls

Constantly monitor the condition of your house's walls.

Do not allow regular direct water contact with the walls and partitions or their excessive moisture; to prevent this, keep the gutter system (gutters, downpipes), window sills and plinth drip edges in working order.

Excessive moisture adversely affects the frost resistance and thermal conductivity of the walls and may impair the performance characteristics of walls and partitions.

If hairline cracks or chips appear on the walls, contact our company's specialists immediately.

Without a specially developed design agreed with our company, do not carry out work to:

  • change the layout of the interior rooms of the house;
  • build extensions to the house;
  • enlarge window and door openings;
  • create openings in walls;
  • damage the integrity of the lintels above openings;
  • dismantle or otherwise alter chimneys and ventilation ducts;
  • alter the exterior wall construction in a way that could damage the vapor barrier, waterproofing and thermal insulation layers.

If the listed requirements are not met, the strength of walls and partitions may be weakened, which may compromise the load-bearing capacity of the house.

Floors

When using the floors of the house, without a specially developed design agreed with our company, it is prohibited to:

  • make openings in floors;
  • run utilities through floors;
  • damage the integrity of the vapor barrier and waterproofing membranes in floors above a technical crawl space, a cold basement or beneath a cold attic;
  • allow the floor insulation to get wet or excessively damp;
  • damage the waterproofing coatings on balconies, terraces and in bathrooms, including where the waterproofing meets door frames, walls and partitions.

Failure to comply with the listed requirements may lead to reduced load-bearing capacity of the floors, loss of sound insulation properties and rainwater leaks.

Roofing

Installation must be carried out by a crew or organization holding a certificate of professional competence.

The house must be protected with roofing material within 1 weeks after the house structures are erected (clause 8.6 of SP 31-105-2002 “Design and Construction of Energy-Efficient Single-Family Timber-Frame Houses”, as regards the requirements for protecting the roof and house structures from penetration by rain, meltwater and snow).

Constantly monitor the condition of your roof and clear it of needles, leaves and other debris in good time.

In winter, clear snow and ice from the attic windows at least 1 times a week; this will prevent meltwater leaks.

Every spring, check that the gutters and pipes are securely fixed and re-tighten any loose roofing fasteners.

Do not use sharp objects (crowbars, etc.) to clear snow from the roof.

Without a specially developed design agreed with our company, do not carry out work to: – change the elements of the rafter system or damage their integrity; – create additional openings through the roof.

Failure to comply with the listed requirements may weaken the structure and lead to loss of the roof's load-bearing capacity.

During finishing and other construction work, and while using the house, do not damage the vapor barrier and wind- and moisture-protection membranes.

Do not block the ventilation openings of the roof, attic and eaves, to avoid creating a damp environment that harms wooden structures.

After strong winds, check that the soffits, siding, eaves and wind board are secure, to avoid breakage or damage.

Attention! Under no circumstances should the integrity of the vapor barrier, thermal insulation and wind- and moisture-protection layers of the roof be damaged. Failure to comply may lead to condensation and improper performance of the structure.

Facades

Installation must be carried out by a crew or organization holding a certificate of professional competence.

Within 2 weeks after the house is completed, the final finishing of the house walls with various facade materials must be carried out. The facade system must protect the wood from fungi and insects (clause 10 of SP 31-105-2002 Design and Construction of Energy-Efficient Single-Family Timber-Frame Houses, as regards the requirements for protecting the exterior walls of the house from penetration of atmospheric moisture and air into the structure).

The house may also be protected with a wind-barrier membrane, which must be applied within 2 weeks after the house structures are erected.

Storage outdoors in high humidity causes the panels to darken and gradually deteriorate.

Do not allow regular direct water contact with the facades or their excessive moisture; to prevent this, keep the drainage system (gutters, downpipes), window sills and plinth drip edges in working order. Excessive moisture adversely affects the frost resistance and thermal conductivity of facade coverings and may impair their performance characteristics.

Attention! Failure to comply with the listed requirements may create a damp environment that harms wooden structures (mold) and lead to gradual deterioration of the house as a whole.

Wood protection

Wooden structures (beams, supports, etc.) must be protected on the outside against moisture damage and fire. It is best to treat them with a combined compound that has antifungal, antiseptic and fire-retardant properties. Painting the house with special paint and varnish compounds gives wooden structures even more protection and durability. Protective treatment should be done at an air temperature of no lower than +5 degrees.

Attention! Particular attention must be paid to protecting glued laminated timber with moisture-protection compounds. Under the influence of moisture or sun, it may swell and break apart at the glue lines.

Windows

Installation must be carried out by a crew or organization holding a certificate of professional competence.

If condensation forms on the inner side where window structures meet the walls and reveals, make sure the installation joints and the PSUL tape (pre-compressed sealing tape) are intact. Prolonged excess moisture may lead to mold. To eliminate these defects, contact our specialists.

Keep the window sills in working order and clear them of snow and ice when necessary.

PVC window sashes and door leaves must open and close without effort. If there is any difficulty, the locking hardware must be adjusted or repaired.

Window frame surfaces must be cleaned with detergents recommended by the window manufacturer.

At least once a year, check how the windows open and close and the condition of the elastic sealing gasket; if necessary, adjust and repair.

Interior finishing

Installation must be carried out by a crew or organization holding a certificate of professional competence.

After the house is put into operation, the temperature inside must be kept at no lower than +5 °C. Otherwise, the interior finishing may be spoiled and the internal utility systems (heating, water supply, sewerage) may fail.

Do not leave the house without permanent residents for more than 3 months, because an unoccupied building is at greater risk of damage to the finishing coatings due to disruption of the air and humidity regime.

Only materials recommended for interior finishing may be used for interior finishing.

In buildings of all types, use “Izospan B” or its equivalent as the vapor barrier, to protect insulation and other structural elements from saturation with water vapor from inside the room.

“Izospan B” helps preserve the heat-insulating properties of the insulation and extends the service life of the entire structure.

Rules for the interior use of a house with glued laminated beams and supports (structures)

Wood's worst enemy is moisture. Glued laminated timber is a very dry material, but the indoor microclimate of the house can harm it too. The rooms must have a constant air temperature and humidity of no more than 75%. Temperature fluctuations in the rooms must not be allowed. Temperature may be lowered or raised only gradually.

Excessively low humidity can harm the timber just as much. The optimal moisture content for the wall material is at least 6%, and air humidity at least 45%. If these drop, the timber may shrink and delaminate.

Take particular care when preparing the house for winter heating. Start up the heating system very gradually. If the house has two floors, do not allow floor 2 to overheat, as this will lead to drying out, warping and destruction of the timber. Warm the house slowly and gradually, bringing the temperature to the optimum of 18–22 degrees.

Under no circumstances leave the house unheated in winter.

Utility systems

Installation must be carried out by a crew or organization holding a certificate of professional competence.

When operating the utility systems of the house, follow the manufacturers' operating instructions.

Connect utility systems to the power supply only through voltage stabilizers and only by qualified specialists.

Electrical work must be carried out strictly according to the design and in accordance with the applicable SNiP and PUE (electrical installation rules).

Replace the heat-transfer fluid in the heating system only with the help of a specialized organization.

Make sure that outdoor networks – the drainage system, storm sewer and sanitary sewer – do not become clogged with debris or snow and do not freeze. If necessary, take measures to clear them. Do not use sharp objects (crowbars, etc.) to clear the networks.

When drilling holes in the floors and walls of the house, consult the as-built diagrams of concealed utility lines (cables, pipelines).

Boiler equipment, local utility networks, water heaters, water treatment systems, etc. require monthly, quarterly and annual maintenance. To ensure uninterrupted operation of the systems, have the equipment serviced by specialized organizations or use the services of our company.

Be sure to install the external grounding and lightning protection loop for your house before it is put into use.

The house must have natural supply and exhaust ventilation installed in accordance with SNiP.

Failure to comply with the listed requirements may create a damp environment that harms wooden structures (mold) and lead to gradual deterioration of the house as a whole.

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